Cathedral Lakes to Half Dome | 4 Days, 3 Nights
I’ve gotten into many a Half Dome Lottery, all unsuccessful. When I was able to convince a good friend to be down for some Yosemite backpacking I figured we had a chance. Getting anything in Yosemite is tough, gotta be ready whatever months out, logged in and ready to go. We were both were ready at the 7am time, I was going for Happy Isles, Mike for Cathedral Lakes. We got the Cathedral Lakes Backcountry Permit. These thing go fast!
The Drive & Basecamp
The drive from Phoenix to Yosemite is a haul, but once you start climbing into the Sierra, it flips a switch. Desert fades out, granite takes over, and suddenly you’re in a completely different world.
We set up at Crane Flat Campground for two nights—perfect spot to stage, relax, and get acclimated before heading into the backcountry.
Day Hike Warm-Up: Mist Trail → John Muir Trail Loop
We dropped into the Valley and hit the Mist Trail, climbing past Vernal Fall and hung out at Emerald Lake. The Mist Trail is steep, it’s crowded, it can frustrating, and it’s absolutely worth it. The mist, the granite walls, the energy of that trail—it sets the tone fast.
We looped out via the last lttile bit of the John Muir Trail, which gave us a bit more breathing room and didn’t have to fight the crowds coming up the Mist Trail.
Backpacking Route: Cathedral Lakes → Happy Isles
4 Days | 3 Nights
Day 1: Cathedral Lakes Trailhead → Sunrise Lake #3
We started at the Cathedral Lakes Trailhead, climbing steadily through forest and granite slabs before breaking into the high country.
We made a quick stop at the Sunrise Lakes High Sierra Camp, and then hit the trail again. By the time we reached Sunrise Lake #3, it felt like we had left the crowds behind for a bit. Quiet water, open granite, and that high-elevation stillness Yosemite does so well.
Set up camp. Ate well. Sat back and watched the light fade off the peaks.
Day 2: Sunrise Lake → Clouds Rest Junction (JMT)
This was a moving day.
After a nice morning enjoying some coffee, we packed up and hit the trail. We cruised past the other two Sunrise Lakes and picked up the John Muir Trail, cruising through classic Tuolumne high country terrain—rolling granite, scattered trees, and endless views. There’s a significant section that goes through a fire scar, a part if the Yosemite environment, but it would have been an amazing forest to hike through.
When we reached the Clouds Rest junction we found an amazing spot to camp and moved in!
Camp that night felt earned.
Day 3: Half Dome Push (Out & Back)
This was the day.
An early start, light packs, and we headed toward Half Dome. The cables, the exposure, the scale of it—it’s one of those hikes that demands your attention the entire time.
We were taking it on for the first time, and watching that experience unfold never gets old.
Standing on top, looking out over Yosemite, it’s hard not to just stop and take it in for a while.
We made our way back down to the same camp—tired, but in that good way.
Day 4: Exit to Happy Isles
Last morning in the backcountry.
We packed up and dropped down toward Happy Isles, gradually re-entering civilization as the trail filled back in with hikers.
It’s always a weird transition—going from total quiet back into the Valley energy—but it also means you just wrapped up something solid.
Final Thoughts
Yosemite never disappoints, but this route hit a perfect balance:
- High country solitude
- Classic Sierra terrain
- A Half Dome summit to cap it off
Starting from Cathedral Lakes and exiting through the Valley gave it that full-value feel—like you actually traveled through the park instead of just visiting it.
And doing it with a good friend? That’s what makes trips like this stick.
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